La Gazzetta displays art deco cool.
The Locale: 29 Rue de Cotte, 75012
The Pioneer: Petter Nilsson began his cooking career in his native Sweden at age 15, cooking his way through the country at more classical restaurants before moving to Copenhagen and heading up the kitchen for a large restaurant group. Nilsson yearned for a simpler life and wanted to perfect his French, so he moved to France, working in Bordeaux and Uzés before moving to Paris four years ago to run La Gazzetta in the 12th Arrondissement.
The Mission: Nilsson has taken a quieter approach to the Nordic food movement. Though his food is French in its techniques and ingredients, his style and state of mind are very much Scandinavian. “For me, this is the only way I know how to cook,” says Nilsson. Just the idea that a Swede can run a successful kitchen in a city such as Paris makes his countrymen (including Samuelsson) proud. Nilsson has trained many Nordic chefs at his restaurant and says that “seeing that many of the cooks that have worked for me here in Paris are doing very well back in Sweden makes me glad.”
The Food: The prix fixe menu, which changes every fourth night, offers a selection of plates for a great value (five courses for 39 euros or seven courses for 52 euros). Nilsson describes the menu as “old, seasonal mountain eating.” Nilsson has earned buzz in the local and international press for serving reliably good food in a low-key environment.